M-D Building Products 43337 Vinyl Cinch® U-Shape Slide-On Under Door Seal, Easy-to-Install, Energy-Saving, Weatherproof Seal for Doors, Effective Draft Blocker, Ideal for Home (36 Inch, Brown)

This gasket is the best you can buy out there (IMHO). I find it is best used if the gap is ½” to ¾”. Less will possibly work, but you may quickly shave off the dangling legs. These can be somewhat hard to install on a 1 ¾” door as the fit is super tight (compression fit). That is why there are no holes for screws. Here is the installation that worked for me (second one installed and lessons learned).1) The Mark: (if required. Yes, I know it is 36” and so is your door, but trust me). Lay at base of door, flush at one end and mark opposite end at end of door. Trim as below - if length is perfect, skip to 3).2) The Trim: (lesson learned from installing as is - ¼” extended past the door edge hitting the side frame. Not fun to remove). Use anything you are skilled with: Hack saw, band saw, chain saw or whatever. Here is what I used/did. I used the heavy duty scissors to snip both upstanding legs (as far as I could). I then snipped each dangling leg at the same distance as the upstanding legs. I then used a sharp blade against a small section of 2x4 to cut the bottom – was tough and takes patience / great force. (see cut piece in pics – yes, my door is 36” and I still trimmed off about a ¼”.3) The Install: Spray Windex on both sides of the lower sides of the door along with a shot that length of the seal (insides). Yes, Windex – as any avid dirt biker knows – lubricates for install and evaporates for a extremely tight seal (like grips on your dirt bike!) Should have bought this stock in the 70’s.4) The Slide: Before the Windex evaporates, slide the seal from outer end of door (as if you could install any other way). It will be easy for the first 6”, then you will need a gloved (leather preferably) hand to pound it on most of the way. I got it to about to 3-4” left before my palm gave out. From there I used a block of wood (to protect the seal) and a small hammer (yea, the one shown is a tiny tike hammer, but the one I use the most) to tap the seal flush to the door. Now you are almost done.5) The Pop: More than likely, the seal is up to the bottom of the door. I couldn’t even move my door as it was sealed to the floor. I used a rigid scraper (metal as shown – I have rigid and flexible and had to use the rigid one) sliding under the seal (gently not to damage the dangling fingers) in 6” increments and pulling up (you will hear the pop as it seats with the bottom of your door. I did this to both inside and outside of door.Key: From the Windex spray to the end was done before the Windex dried.Hopefully this helped with the installation.

Perfect fit. Looks great and sealed under the 50 year old door. Glad I read the reviews where someone commented using a hammer and wood block to assist in installing because that really did the trick.

I was not sure when it arrived if it would do the trick but is had kept lizards and bugs out of our office. You do need a few tools to help cut it to the right length but once it is on it is not going anywhere. It is also good for keeping the air from escaping under your door.

This is so much better than the stick on draft blockers I tried for years. They ALWAYS fall off and are just a waste of time and money. I had a considerable gap under my back door, maybe close to an inch and the cold air whooshed in all winter.I got this draft blocker and it is extremely snug on the bottom of the door. I suggest thoroughly cleaning the door and then priming this with a little silicone or olive oil, whatever you have. I had some sticky stuff left over on one spot and it was a bear to get past. I used a hammer on the end and some dish soap and finally got it on.The door was initially harder to close, part of it was it wasn't quite on all the way. I adjusted it a little more and it was much easier, but it isn't like it was before. I have to give the door a bit more of a push now, which is fine considering the dust, bugs and I suspect mice that creep in in the winter the moment it starts to get cool.Worth every penny and I wish I had gotten it years ago. If it breaks down over time (as literally everything does... I will happily replace with this item.

I had an old Pella fiberglass door and the bottom had warped and disconnected from the bottom. Everyone said the door had to be replaced so I figured I’d give this a try and it worked. Some people suggested gluing and clamping it, but it was coming apart at the top not as bad and we did try to glue that and it didn’t work. This worked perfectly and it’s gonna give me more years out of the door instead of replacing it very very happy. I know there’s plenty of people out there with warped Pella doors so it worked on mine.

Worked really well and easy to trim to 32", if your door is 32" and not 36". Great product.

M-D Building Products 43338 36 in. Clear Vinyl U-Shape Cinch Slide-On Under Door SealI got these for our front door and side door. One door was wood and one door was metal. I read all reviews before purchasing because our home was built in 1950s and when we purchased for complete remodel we needed something for draft protection.The insulation protection was the main reason we bought it. However we bought TWO and the hard plastic was absolutely NOT malleable and made these impossible to slide on the door to install. I bought two based on reviews and I really wanted them to work but they didn’t.Sad thing is one i got for 1/3 of the price on the “T moo like a cow” website worked.We have now used these on MULTIPLE doors with zero success.Just know if you need these to bend at all on install- they don’t.Quality made but didn’t work.

The box was severely damaged in transit and the seal was slightly bent but because it was needed ASAP we didn't request a return. It was easy to install and seems to be working fine.