Durabak 18 (For Outdoors), SMOOTH version - Non Slip Coating, Bedliner, Deck Paint for ALL Boats - Many colors to choose from! - MEDIUM BLUE - QUART

I used this stuff to seal my cement pool. It worked great. In the past I used the rubber pool paint and it bubbled every year and needed 7 days to dry with no rain and needed to be the right temperature to apply :(. This stuff dries fast in hours, and temperature is not an issue. It is extremely durable and looks great and I hope will last for years. It is expensive but worth it if it last for years.Note: The fumes are a little harsh. I applied with a roller. Went on easy. I cleaned the surface really well and prepped before to make sure the surface was ready to apply. I applied two coats. So far so good :)

Just used this product which seems to work as described. Manufacturer needs to use a better can that you can remove the lid without damaging it and the can. I ordered three cans and all of them were damaged in shipping. Also had to destroy all the lids in order to open them. Now you can not use the lid to cover the can to keep the product from drying out. Time will tell if the product holds up as described.

Awesome bedliner if prepped right. Works great to roll on. Really changed the look! I have 24 foot RV one gallon is good for one side at a time, I did 4 coats!

I had an "aha moment" one day after 6 years of not being able to use my circa 1947 salmon pink shower stall.I had a problem where the water in the floor of it would soak into the concrete under the tile, then slowly make its way outward, eventually making mildew stains on the tile outside the stall, and wetting/rotting the wood framing beyond the shower enclosure.I really missed the practicality of the stall, and the vintage charm of it, so I put off demolishing the entire room (all matching tile, cannot find it anymore) to resolve the issue- so I just didn't use it.I love bedliner for the durability, chemical resistance, and sealing characteristics it has- but I didn't want a colored liner to cover the original tile and stick out like a sore thumb.I had no idea anyone made it in clear, but I googled it and this is where I was directed.I also didn't want a cheap product- it had to be permanent and good the first time since once it's done, there's no going back if the attempt fails.I settled on Durabak- it arrived fairly quickly and I thoroughly bleached, rinsed, and washed again with glass cleaner, then allowed it to air out a couple days, guaranteeing dryness.I masked around the tops of the floor-to-wall transition tiles, then used a medium knap micro roller to apply the Durabak.It was a very thick product, super sticky and about the consistency of refrigerated syrup. It rolled on evenly. I put it on thick and liberally, it lays on lumpy with a roller, which I was a bit concerned about. Within 20 minutes before the second coat, it had leveled itself out completely and was glass smooth.I added the second coat, which used the remainder of the quart can (shower stall is 3x4 feet)The second coat leveled itself too. I was concerned a surface glass smooth would be slick for the bare feet, expecially soapy bare feet. After I let it cure throughly for about 3 days, I was shocked that even though there's no grit or abrasive material in the clear Durabak, your bare feet grip excellently on it, even covered in soap.I've been using the stall twice daily for a few weeks now, - zero signs of moisture escaping through into the slab or framing (left the wall opened up to make sure)It looks and performs like a million bucks. I didn't have to spend thousands and break my back gutting and replacing a period correct bathroom- which I love and didn't want to see destroyed. It fits this house, and wouldn't be replaceable once it was gone.Great product, Durabak! You saved my vintage bath!

I wanted an extremely hard-wearing paint for the inside of the my older skiff. I followed the directions dutifully, sanding with 40-grit and wiping down with Xylene, which is horrible stuff.The directions say to roll out a thin coat, first, let it dry (1 hour!!!), add a second coat. First of all, there is no way a thin coat dries in 1 hour. It's still sticky as can be. Second, I expected this to be far less transparent than it is -- the above photos are with two coats, with the second coat as heavy as I could roll without running (which is another problem). You can easily see bare fiberglass and fairing compound under the paint, which is disappointing.

This stuff has a shelf life, even before you open it. If it has a yellowish-orange tint when you pop the lid, try to get your money back. (The tinted stuff may have separation that is rust colored before you stir it and may be just fine, but the clear should still be clear in the can) You can try to thin with xylene, but it will not work. It's already too far gone.I have no doubt this is on the decks of some navy vessels. It is that good. Textured or smooth, it is virtually bullet proof when you apply it correctly. I will buy it again and again, but not all cans are equal. I bought a quart of this clear/smooth durabak and it was epoxy clear and not too different from latex paint in consistency. Fairly easy to apply and very happy with the results. My last order was a gallon and it was as described above, as well as very thick. Tried to save it, but it would leave bubbles in the surface no matter how much I thinned it.I absolutely recommend this product for coating anything you want protected and/or textured. I love it's durability. Just make sure you have a recent batch before you start.That being said, this particular can I received is still usable as an undercoating or on tools, but I will not be putting it on anything that needs to look nice. I'll buy a new can for that

I needed a product that didn't have the little anti-slip, texture material in it. This stuff is very durable and is holding up well. Bear in mind my trailer is kept in a garage, but when I use it, it gets used but good. It has scratched a little bit in the bed, but it's holding up very well. I put 3 layers on the sides and 4 on the bottom. A nail/screw will gouge it, but it's easy to touch up, just make sure it's clean, scuff it up a little, and paint some on the gouge.